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Guide

How to read your Loan Estimate, page by page

A Loan Estimate is the three-page form a lender must give you after you apply for most mortgages. Every lender uses the same layout, which makes it the best tool you have for comparing offers and, later, for checking your final costs. Here's what each part means and what to look for.

Last reviewed 7 min readBy the Mortgage Lens team

What a Loan Estimate is

The Loan Estimate is a standard form required by federal rules known as TRID (the TILA-RESPA Integrated Disclosure rule). You get one for most mortgages, including purchase loans and refinances. Home equity lines of credit and reverse mortgages use different disclosures.

The lender must deliver or mail your Loan Estimate within three business days after it receives your application. Under the rule, you've applied once you give the lender six pieces of information:

  • your name
  • your income
  • your Social Security number, so the lender can check your credit
  • the property address
  • an estimate of the property's value
  • the loan amount you want

Until you've received the Loan Estimate and told the lender you want to go ahead, the lender can't charge you fees, other than a reasonable fee for pulling your credit report. Signing the Loan Estimate only confirms you received it. It doesn't commit you to the loan.

A worksheet isn't a Loan Estimate

Some lenders hand out a fee worksheet or quote first. If a lender gives you a written estimate before the Loan Estimate, it must say at the top that your actual rate, payment and costs could be higher. Those numbers aren't binding, so get an official Loan Estimate before you compare lenders.

Page 1: loan terms, payments and cash to close

The top of page 1 identifies the loan: the loan term (for example, 30 years), its purpose (purchase or refinance), the product (such as fixed rate or adjustable rate) and the loan type (conventional, FHA, VA or other). It also shows whether your interest rate is locked, and until when, and the date the other estimated closing costs expire.

Loan Terms

This table lists your loan amount, interest rate and monthly principal and interest. Next to each is the question "Can this amount increase after closing?" It also says whether the loan has a prepayment penalty or a balloon payment. Any "Yes" you didn't expect is worth asking about before you go further.

Projected Payments

Your estimated monthly payment, broken into principal and interest, mortgage insurance, and estimated escrow for property taxes and homeowner's insurance. If the payment changes over time, for example when mortgage insurance ends or an adjustable rate resets, you'll see separate columns. Below the table, the form shows your estimated taxes, insurance and assessments and whether they'll be paid through escrow.

Costs at Closing

Two headline numbers: estimated closing costs (the total from page 2, after any lender credits) and estimated cash to close, the amount you'd bring to closing.

Page 2: closing costs, Sections A to J

Page 2 itemizes your closing costs. Loan Costs (Sections A to D) cover what it costs to make the loan. Other Costs (Sections E to I) cover taxes, prepaid items and escrow. Knowing which is which tells you where lenders actually compete.

  • A. Origination Charges

    What it covers
    What the lender (and any mortgage broker) charges to make the loan: points and fees such as application, underwriting and processing
    Can you shop or negotiate?
    Yes. This is the lender's own pricing, so compare it across lenders and negotiate.
  • B. Services You Cannot Shop For

    What it covers
    Services the lender requires and picks the provider for, such as the appraisal, credit report and flood certification
    Can you shop or negotiate?
    Not the provider, but compare the totals across lenders.
  • C. Services You Can Shop For

    What it covers
    Required services where you can choose the provider, such as title services and a survey
    Can you shop or negotiate?
    Yes. The lender must give you a written list of providers, and you can usually choose your own.
  • E. Taxes and Other Government Fees

    What it covers
    Recording fees and transfer taxes
    Can you shop or negotiate?
    No. Government agencies set these.
  • F. Prepaids

    What it covers
    Items paid in advance, such as homeowner's insurance premiums, prepaid interest and sometimes property taxes
    Can you shop or negotiate?
    You can shop for insurance. Prepaid interest depends on your closing date.
  • G. Initial Escrow Payment at Closing

    What it covers
    Money to start your escrow account for property taxes and insurance
    Can you shop or negotiate?
    No. It depends on your tax and insurance bills.
  • H. Other

    What it covers
    Costs the lender doesn't require, such as an owner's title policy (marked optional), a home inspection or homeowners association fees
    Can you shop or negotiate?
    Often. These are between you, the seller and your providers.

Section D adds up A, B and C, and Section I adds up E through H. Section J, Total Closing Costs, is D plus I minus any lender credits. Lender credits are money the lender puts toward your closing costs, usually in exchange for a higher interest rate.

Below the sections, the Calculating Cash to Close table shows how your closing costs, down payment, deposit, seller credits and other adjustments add up to the cash you bring. If your loan has an adjustable rate or payment, extra tables show how and when it can change.

Where lenders really compete

Sections A, B and C, plus the interest rate, reflect the lender's pricing. Sections F and G mostly reflect your closing date, your insurance premium and your property taxes. A lender showing a lower number in F or G isn't offering a cheaper loan, so don't choose a lender based on those lines.

Page 3: comparisons and other details

Page 3 lists the lender and loan officer with their NMLS license numbers, then three figures built for comparing offers:

  • In 5 Years: the total you'll have paid in principal, interest, mortgage insurance and loan costs in the first five years, and how much principal you'll have paid off.
  • Annual Percentage Rate (APR): your costs over the loan term expressed as a rate. It isn't your interest rate. APR is useful for comparing loans of the same type, but it assumes you keep the loan for its full term. If you expect to sell or refinance sooner, lean on the rate, the closing costs and the 5-year figure.
  • Total Interest Percentage (TIP): the total interest you'd pay over the life of the loan, as a percentage of your loan amount.

The rest of page 3 covers other considerations: your right to a copy of the appraisal, whether a future buyer of your home could take over the loan, homeowner's insurance requirements, late payment fees, a reminder that refinancing later depends on things like your home's value, and whether the lender plans to service the loan itself or transfer it. The signature line only confirms you received the form.

Red flags to look for

  • A "Yes" under "Can this amount increase after closing?" that you didn't expect, or a prepayment penalty or balloon payment.
  • A rate that isn't locked when you thought it was, or a lock that expires before your expected closing date.
  • Discount points in Section A you didn't ask for, or points that don't buy a lower rate than another lender offers without them.
  • A stack of small lender fees in Section A (application, processing, underwriting, administration, document preparation) on top of an origination charge.
  • A loan amount, loan type or term that doesn't match what you asked for.
  • A Section F or G far lower than other lenders'. It won't change what you actually pay for insurance, taxes or interest, and it can make one offer look cheaper than it is.

None of these is automatically wrong, but each deserves a question to your loan officer, ideally in writing. Our guide to junk fees covers which Section A charges are worth pushing back on.

How to compare two Loan Estimates

  1. Ask on the same day. Rates change daily. Request estimates for the same loan amount, term and loan type, and the same lock period if you can.
  2. Compare the rate and Section A together. A lower rate with points and a higher rate with lender credits can cost about the same. What matters is the total over the time you expect to keep the loan.
  3. Compare Sections B and C. Service costs vary between lenders, and you may be able to shop Section C yourself.
  4. Set Sections F and G aside. They mostly reflect timing, taxes and insurance, not lender pricing.
  5. Check the "In 5 Years" figure if you expect to keep the loan about that long.
  6. Ask for a match. If you prefer one lender but another is cheaper on specific lines, ask in writing whether they'll match it.

If you have two to four estimates, our Estimate Compare report lines them up for you and flags unusual fees. The free mortgage payment calculator is handy for checking the monthly figures.

After you choose

Once you tell a lender you intend to proceed, it can start charging fees, such as for the appraisal. If you don't say you want to proceed within 10 business days after the lender gives you the Loan Estimate (or a longer period the lender allows), the lender can issue new estimates.

Keep your Loan Estimate. The charges on it are the baseline your final costs are measured against: some can't rise at all, some can rise a little as a group, and some can change freely. Our TRID tolerance guide explains the limits and the valid reasons a lender can revise them.

You'll get a Closing Disclosure at least three business days before closing. It uses the same sections, so you can check it line by line against this form. See Closing Disclosure explained for what to check.

Comparing offers?

Line up your Loan Estimates side by side

Upload 2 to 4 Loan Estimates and see which offer really costs less, which fees look unusual, and what to raise with each lender.

See Estimate Compare

Sources

We checked the rules in this guide against these official sources. Regulation citations are to Regulation Z (Truth in Lending), which contains the TILA-RESPA Integrated Disclosure (TRID) rules.

  1. Loan Estimate explainer (opens in a new tab), Consumer Financial Protection BureauAn interactive, line-by-line walk through a sample Loan Estimate.
  2. 12 CFR 1026.19(e) (opens in a new tab), eCFRWhen the Loan Estimate must be delivered, fees before intent to proceed, and written estimates given before the Loan Estimate.
  3. 12 CFR 1026.37 (opens in a new tab), eCFRWhat each section of the Loan Estimate must contain.
  4. 12 CFR 1026.2(a)(3) (opens in a new tab), eCFRThe six pieces of information that make up an application.

This guide is general education, not legal or financial advice. Rules can differ by loan type and state, and your lender or a real estate attorney can speak to your specific loan. For free, independent help, you can talk to a HUD-approved housing counselor (opens in a new tab).

Comparing offers?

Line up your Loan Estimates side by side

Upload 2 to 4 Loan Estimates and see which offer really costs less, which fees look unusual, and what to raise with each lender.

Keep reading

  • Guide

    TRID tolerance: which closing costs can go up

    Zero tolerance, the 10% group and no-limit fees in plain language, with worked examples, valid reasons for changes, and the 60-day refund rule.

  • Guide

    Mortgage junk fees and how to push back

    Which lender fees are negotiable, common padded charges to question, what you can't change, and wording you can adapt when you ask a lender to cut fees.

  • Guide

    Closing Disclosure explained: what to check before you sign

    The three-business-day rule, what should match your Loan Estimate, the page 3 "Did this change?" table, and a checklist for closing day.

  • Report

    Estimate Compare

    Upload 2 to 4 Loan Estimates. See which offer costs less, which fees look unusual, and what to raise with each lender.

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